A fairly touchy subject that is a pretty individual thing: how far do you go to fit in abroad? What compels you–pride, security, respect, one of the many other possible driving factors?
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Asia
A Day in the Mountains: Chiaksan in South Korea
This is the story of two attempts on Chiaksan, the 1,288-metre tall mountain that resides about an hour’s ride by bus from my former home in Wonju, South Korea. Once upon a time, Chiaksan was known as Jeokakasan. Then, based on a myth about a man who saved a pheasant from a snake, the mountain became “Chiaksan” and the meaning became “Pheasant Peak Mountain.” You’ll find Chiaksan National Park in Gangwon-do, central and north within South Korea’s borders.
My first experience in Chiaksan was in September of 2012, just one month after I’d arrived in South Korea. Meeting up with several other English teachers, strangers to me, Tim and I caught the No. 41 bus for 1,100 won (about $1.14 CAD). The air was still muggy with the humidity of a Korean summer, but nothing compared to the 40-degree heat wave that had thankfully passed.
Arriving at the park, the Americans who accompanied us proceeded to perform exaggerated stretching routines–to the delight of the locals around.
The start of our walk
A leisurely hike along a relatively flat path took us to Guryongsa Temple, an area we spent around an hour exploring. After leaving, we approached Seryeom Waterfall. Here is where the real hike would begin.
The Guryongsa Temple area
There are two routes to Birobong peak, one expert and one advanced in name. The truth is that both have pros and cons that are all their own. The expert path is steep, lined with steps most of the way. One would think that these lengthy staircases would make the path easier, but climbing stairs gets hard after a couple of hours. The advanced path is, of course, also quite steep. However, it is a rugged and less-maintained path, that does have moments of dips and flat path between steep climbs.
On this day in September, we would take the expert path, climbing up and up with speed but stiff joints. I found myself lagging behind, aware for the first time that my level of fitness was not as great as I’d thought. Here is where we would find the hour spent in the temple area would come back to haunt us. The views from the mountain were spectacular, afternoon sun cascading in patterns through greenery that would soon turn yellow, orange, and red. The day was getting late, we were out of time. We headed back with a sense of disappointment, but feasted on the best mountain bibimbap (rice, vegetables, chili paste, and an egg), dotorimuk (acorn jelly salad), memiljeon (Korean buckwheat pancake), and fresh makgeolli (sort of a low-alcohol rice wine). The day was salvaged.
The second attempt on Chiaksan
In May of 2013, I was desperate to find my way to Chiaksan’s Birobong Peak. By this point, we’d done a lot more hiking in South Korea, and Tim and I decided to go it alone to set our own pace. We left Wonju early, arriving in the park in the morning. We skipped through the first hour towards the temple quickly, and decided to take a wager and make for the previously unexplored (to us) advanced route.
Tim, in the beginning
As we gained altitude, snow and ice made more frequent appearances. Fatigue set it. We’d brought food to eat, but felt determined to make a steady trek to the peak (not advisable, but tempting in the mountains). Finally, the top was in sight. A last set of staircases help us gain momentum and reach the peak. The stone pagodas appeared as we ascended, greeting us in our arrival.
The top is in sight
At the peak, groups of Korean hikers lit up propane stoves and shared in shots of soju (the famous rice liquor, tasting like a slightly weak vodka–to me at least). The weather would have been nicer that day in September, but we rejoiced in the views of Korean hills, mystical in the haze. After a few quick photos and time to revel in success, we headed back down the expert path. Two things came to my mind: chocolate and soda. I’m not usually that big of a sugar person, but at this point, my body was pretty depleted.
Our celebratory photo together
We arrived at the shops near the entrance to the park just minutes before the next bus back to Wonju would pull up. We quickly bought a few snacks and jumped on the crowded bus, luckily making our way to two empty seats at the very back. Tim ate an ice cream cone as a young Korean boy laughed at us and gestured his jealously for our snacks. Tired and content, we were on our way back home.
Tell me about a memorable hike you’ve had! Share below!
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A year on display in South Korea
Let’s talk about race. This doesn’t mean I want to get into cultural, historical, political correctness, or any sort of controversy. When I was working toward my degree in biology, I became very interested in the evolution of the human species. From that standpoint, I do find differences and similarities between different races to be quite interesting–the differences which arise when populations exist in different environments and are separated for extended periods of time. I’m interested in the natural progression that history has taken us through, not in making any claims for what the future should or shouldn’t hold.
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5 Weekend Trips in South Korea
It’s now been over a year since I moved away from South Korea, and I still find myself missing it regularly. I’ve written about some reasons why I love it in a previous post, so I won’t go into all that here. Maybe someday I’ll live there again (sorry mom!), but for now I’ll satisfy my longing by writing about it once again.
South Korea is a mecca for recent grads that have less than $0 and want to experience something new. But, you don’t just go there to teach–you go to spend your weekends exploring the country and taking it all in, cheaply (or not-so-cheaply, as it’s also very possible). Here are some of my favourite trips on this mountainous peninsula:
(disclaimer: this list is a bit Gangwon-do heavy. Not only because that’s where I lived–in Wonju–, but because it is a beautiful province with just too much good stuff to miss out on. It’s also pretty convenient if you live in Gyeonggi-do–the most populous province in the country)
5 trips for weekend warriors in South Korea
5. Lake Chungju
Cruising Lake Chungju in the late afternoon sunset is a somewhat mystical experience. The water sparkles in smooth laps and the distant hills turn to shadow. Depending on the time of year, you’ve got two options for your cruise: a shorter, scenic cruise around the artificial lake, or a two-hour journey across the lake to Danyang. Unfortunately, I arrived late in the day and found my choices limited to the first option. I’ve heard Danyang is beautiful in its own right and you can catch the bus back from there, so I was sad about that. However, the shorter cruise was spectacular in itself, the landscape opens up around you and it was a perfect springtime experience for me.
Prices vary between 12,000 to 20,000 Won for ferry admission, depending on your choice. From Chungju Bus Terminal, take bus no. 777 to City Hall (Sicheong) and transfer to no. 301 heading for the lake dock. Read Tim’s full article on it here.
4. Insadong, Seoul
I’ve spent my fair share of weekends–and one Christmas–in Seoul. I’ve been around a few neighbourhoods: Hongdae, Myeongdong, Itaewon, Sincheon, Dongdaemun, Gangnam, and passed through a couple others. Insadong takes the top for me. I get that perhaps Insadong is a bit of a novelty, but it’s fun. It’s a historical district in Seoul, and is a mix of modern art galleries and traditional tea houses. You’ll find streets lined with traditional stationary shops, and street artists and Korean street foods aplenty.
The famed Ssamzigil is a shopping mall worth checking out. It’s an open spiral structure that winds up, filled with plenty of crafts and knickknacks. I purchased one of my favourite chains there for 6,000 Won. At the top you can also find Insadong “poop-bread,” which isn’t nearly as weird as it sounds. I promise. Try one for 1,000 Won.
3. Namiseom/Chuncheon
Namiseom Island is famous for its beauty, history, and natural landscape. It’s true claim to fame, however, is that many scenes from the popular Korean drama Winter Sonata were shot here. Now, I could never find a version of the drama with decent English subtitles (if you know of one, please let me know!) but I desperately wanted to find it after visiting this place. The gorgeous tree-lined roads and grassy field, it’s a romantic setting that feels fairy-tale-worthy. Couples ride tandem bikes, and rustic wooden bridges lead you around the island, through gardens and along the waterfront. I know I’m getting cheesy here. But, I can’t help it when I think about it. It’s too good.
Depending on where you are coming from, you can go directly to Namiseom from Seoul. However, you really should take the time to drop by Chuncheon’s Dakgalbi Street. Seriously. Best. Dakgalbi. Can’t go wrong (disclaimer: maybe you can, matter of opinion!).
2. Chiaksan, Gangwon-do
Chiak is not the most epic mountain in South Korea, but it was my first Korean mountain, and it will always be close to my heart. From Wonju, you can take a public bus for 1,200 Won into the park. It’s a beautiful steady trail to the mountainside temple. Spend an hour or so wandering here, it’s worth it.
The hike becomes much more grueling after an hour or so in. You have a couple of choices when it comes to route, but both have their very physical elements. To the top takes around 2.5 hours, back down much faster, around 1.5. The view at the peak is nice, but the real joy is in the scenery along the way, and reaching the end of the challenging path. Also, when you get back down, you can enjoy some of the best makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and mountain food. This is the good stuff. And you’ll be hungry after this hike. Promise.
1. Seoraksan, Gangwon-do
If I had trouble deciding which destinations were my top picks for this list, that trouble disappeared when choosing the top spot. I would go back to South Korea over and over just to visit Seoraksan, and I know I will (I went there already for two weekends in one summer!).
In the Northeast corner of the country, the bus ride through the mountains, valleys, across bridges, and through tunnels can be a little intimidating in itself. When you pass the granite peaks of Ulsanbawi, you know you’re close.
I didn’t reach the park by Sokcho city bus until after dark, so didn’t really experience the park until waking up in it the next morning. It is epic. The mountains, the temples, the bridges, the giant boulders, valleys, rivers–the way it is so vast and crowded and empty at once. Hiking in Seoraksan can be calming and peaceful, or rough and dramatic. You wake to the sounds of Buddhist chanting and drumming, and sleep with calm emptiness echoing in the mountains.
Read more about Seoraksan and Sokcho here.
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These are just a few short trips I was lucky enough to take during my time in Korea. There are plenty of other places I’ve visited or hope to visit someday. Suggestions welcome, as always.
How do you like to spend your weekend getaways?
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Finding my Thai beach paradise on Koh Samui
Here’s the thing: no matter who you are or where you are in life, at some point while thinking about Thailand, the image of a serene beach paradise will pop into your head. It will be a place to lie on warm, pale sand and drink from coconuts, to play in shallow waves, and perhaps to dance the night away with buckets of vodka and soda. After nearly a month exploring the cultural beauty between Bangkok and the north, I was ready to let go and shamelessly spend days lolling about on the beach.
Of course, there are a lot of options when it comes to beaches in Thailand. In fact, you could easily make an entire trip out of island-hopping and beach-going. For me, the decision came down to very few criteria… two, in fact. The first, I needed somewhere convenient to get to from Bangkok. I only had a week or so left in the country, so I didn’t want to spend half the time on trains and boats. That being said, I didn’t want to shell out a week’s worth of accommodations for a flight. Next, I needed to head somewhere that I could get a bit of privacy. Not that I expected an entire swath of white sand to myself, but I didn’t want to feel crowded and stressed by trying to find a free square metre of sand.
Koh Samui caught my eye because of the cheap flight cost. True, it is a huge tourist destination, but also true, many tourists flock directly to Chaweng. Chaweng beach is a stretch of calm waters lapping up on fine, white, sandy beach. The beach is lined with resorts and hotels, and the adjacent road is packed with restaurants, bars, shopping, and many, many tourists. Yes, I went there. Yes, I cut my time there short. The wet season had washed up debris, making the beach look considerably less pristine, and generally, it was packed. After a couple of days, I packed up and hopped on a tuk-tuk to Mae Nam.
Mae Nam is not a white-sand beach. It is more of a courser, golden sand. This may be a deterrent for some, but I’m not all that picky about my sand. The beach is wide and much less populated. Although, decent food and drinks are never too far. I could spend days lounging and reading, taking frequently dips in the slightly rougher waves. Then, venturing just up the street for some Thai cuisine, followed perhaps by a crepe from a street vendor nearby. Mae Nam is a great starting point to venture out to Ang Thong Marine National Park or to the famed backpacker parties on Ko Pha Ngan . I splurged to stay in a nicer beach hut, just a two-minute walk from the beach front. Tim and I split the cost, about $10-12 CAD each per night.
My time on Koh Samui also brought me to Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village, a market area with plenty of shopping and options for dining. I was able to walk (albeit a fairly long walk) from Mae Nam to Bophut. You won’t find quite so many tuk-tuks in Mae Nam, as it’s not nearly popular in the way that Chaweng is. A couple of times, we had to get someone to call one for us.
In the end, it wasn’t quite paradise: a few days were overcast and the powdery, white sand wasn’t quite white or quite powdery. Instead, I found peace, a few good restaurants and bars that I visited repeatedly and was always greeted enthusiastically, met with European expats that had happily made the place their homes, and got exactly what I was looking for. Sometimes, things are exactly what you make of them.
Ever been to Koh Samui? Where is your beach paradise! I’m always looking for suggestions!
Travel research for lazy planners: Destinations
I’m lazy when it comes to planning. I pass it off as being laid-back, going-with-the-flow. But, honestly, I’ve had better experiences by doing just a little bit of research in advance. Through my time traveling, I’ve cultivated research methods that work for me with minimal effort. These may be decision-making tactics, the first sites I visit, or general tips I’ve picked up throughout my time abroad.
As it so happens, I’m planning two trip with very different goals for the coming year: one short trip and one longer backpacking adventure. Hopefully, this will be a series that follows my lazy planning techniques and also motivates me to try a little harder at being organized. Maybe I plan ahead more than you, maybe less–it all depends on personal preference and experience. Either way, let’s start at the beginning.
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Halloween in three countries
In the past three years, I’ve spent Halloween in South Korea, New Zealand, and in Canada. From a country that goes all out on Halloween (Canada), to a country that hardly recognizes the day (South Korea), and somewhere in between (New Zealand).
I can’t say I’ve been the biggest fan of Halloween. Even as a kid, the thrill of dressing up and getting candy was torn down by having to wear a snowsuit under my costume, be driven between houses because the distance was too far and too dark, and the existence of molasses candy (just, why?). When you’re older, Halloween becomes a time for drinking or being scared, sometimes at the same time (a bad combination). Here are some of my past Halloween experiences.
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