Seoraksan

10 Cities That Stole My Heart

December 17, 2014 by Marie 17 Comments

Who doesn’t fantasize about living in each city they visit (seriously, is this normal)? Far too often, I find myself longing for the places I’ve been. Not that I’ve been around too much: Europe, Africa, and South America are still unknown to me (might as well throw Antarctica in there too). I’m hopeful that 2015 will expand my horizons, but at this time, I’m happy with the memories I have. So, with that in mind, here are the top 10 Cities that have already stolen my heart: ** It was a struggle to not list the majority of places I’ve been (I leave pieces of myself everywhere, I swear), but I cut it down to 10 to try and be a little more pointed.

10. Freeport, Bahamas

Taino Beach, Freeport

The Christmas of 2008, I found myself in Freeport, a city of 55,000 on the island of Grand Bahama. The second-most populous city in the Bahamas (after Nassau), Freeport is a tropical island before it is a city. Palm trees intersperse themselves throughout the city area and white sand beaches line the coastal areas. People are friendly and laidback, and time runs at a different pace. I spent all night on that Christmas eve, dancing to Beyoncé at a bar on the beach, and never wanted to leave. I was 19 and this was my first trip outside of Canada, and I was a goner from that point on.

9. Byron Bay, NSW, Australia

With a population itself of less than 5,000, I guess you wouldn’t call this beachside town in New South Wales a city. But, I fell for the place hard. So, I’m making an exception. Awash with hippy surfers, free-spirited yogis, and fun-loving travelers in general, the attitude here is infectious. It’s one of those places where half the people you meet came for a week and stayed for 8 months (plus). The town is fairly lively and the beaches are clean, white, and sandy. There are several popular day trips and tours to be taken (if you think you might like visiting Nimbin, you probably will). The landscape is diverse: rugged and serene at once, and the lighthouse hike really puts this on display. Check out a couple of my previous posts on Byron Bay: First-time surfing in Byron Bay Byron Bay: A Haven for Backpackers in Oz

8. Kampot, Cambodia

Cambodia can be a hard hit of reality, even if you know what to expect. Landing in Phnom Penh and wandering the city will likely bring you some sad sights and deep feelings of empathy: poverty and exploitation of children are glaring issues. Not that this awareness is a bad thing–the world is not perfect and pretending like it is won’t change things. But, something about Kampot is kind of perfect. This sleepy city of around 40,000 lies in Cambodia’s south, not too far from the backpacker magnet that is Sihanoukville. I prefer Kampot. Why? This riverside town sits beside the Elephant Mountains and lends its name to a variety of pepper that is on every menu. It’s small and easy to get around, with a giant durian statue at its core. It’s easy and cheap to tour the mountains and pepper farms. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Vietnam from Bokor Mountain National Park. Good food. Good drinks. Relaxed and friendly. A bit of a dreamland where the big-city issues are sparse and softened. What’s not to love? Read more here: Time out in Kampot, Cambodia

7. Sokcho, South Korea

Sokcho is a city like many other Korean cities–there’s a formula (grey, highrise, dense) but always a slight deviation. In Sokcho’s case, it’s got some pretty spectacular perks. The beach is long and sandy, though very crowded on hot summer days. The real draw is Seoraksan National Park. I can’t stop talking about this place. It’s huge, rugged, beautiful, epic. Climbing the Ulsan Baui granite rock formation is a terrifying and unique experience. Staircases protrude from the smooth rock face, floating above long drops to the forest below. Don’t look through the gaps in the steps, but keep pushing upward. The summit is a small space, squeezed tight with too many hikers, and a windscreen that protects a souvenir stand. But, this single high point feels immense, just like the park itself. I can’t stop talking about it, and yet I can’t express how great my experiences were. Though, I tried to go over it here: A Day in Sokcho, South Korea.

6. Montreal, QC, Canada

Photo by Pedro Szekely

Montreal is my favourite city in Canada (not that I’ve been to them all, but I think it would still come out on top). I really don’t even know where to start. The city has a European charm that can be hard to find in Canada. Old Montreal in the summer (or anytime) is a romantic place of cobbled stone, cafes with open doors and chalkboard signs with loopy hand-drawn specials, wafting scents of fresh roasted coffee and baked goods. The population is diverse and lively, and the international food scene exemplifies this. Foodies won’t be disappointed here. It’s a big city with unlimited options for how to spend your days (and nights).

5. Chiang Mai, Thailand

Photo by Roger

Haven’t we all heard about Chiang Mai a million times? It’s touted as Thailand’s cultural centre, a different world from the chaotic and wild Bangkok (not that Bangkok is without it’s cultural identity). I can say with confidence, if you want to experience Thailand in a short time, Chiang Mai is the place to try it.

This is the largest City in northern Thailand, and is historically significant due to its proximity to trading routes. It’s a popular place to start jungle treks to visit hill tribes, explore temples of gold, take Thai cooking classes, explore the “Top of Thailand,” at Doi Inthanon National Park, wander the massive and crowded Night Bazaar, or take in the historic sites in the Old City, housed within crumbling walls and surrounded by a moat.

Of course, I must also mention that it’s important to avoid things like the Tiger Kingdom and other attractions that are involved in animal exploitation and are potentially unethical. The nearby Elephant Nature Park is a good alternative, it is a rescue and rehabilitation centre where you can volunteer or simply visit. Always do plenty of research so you know exactly what you are supporting.

4. Seoul, South Korea

I’ve had such a love-hate relationship with Seoul. I lived a two-hour bus ride away for a year, and in the many times I visited, I told myself I wouldn’t come back. Why? There are so many people. Seriously. The metro area is over 25,000,000, and the city itself is dense. Between the crowded subways and getting lost in swarms of people in Myeongdong, it can be a headache. But, there’s a lot more than that to it, and that’s why I also love it. Somewhere within the modern Korean city are temples and historic sites that seem to inhabit their own bubbles of serenity. The craze of certain neighbourhoods is replaced with a trendy and artsy atmosphere in others. Plus, you can’t glaze over the fact that it has everything: culture, shopping, history, art, food, parks, Hello Kitty Café? If you’re feeling a bit homesick, it never hurts to go to Baby Guinness in Itaewon for some fish n’ chips (admittedly, made the two-hour bus ride just for this at least once).

3. Queenstown, New Zealand

I know it’s one of those heavy tourist areas, but look at it. Look at the Remarkables mountain range in the background, the blue waters of Lake Wakatipu, pretend you are breathing in cool, crisp mountain air. That’s Queenstown. Bungee, jetboating, hiking, wine tasting? No problem. It’s a small city, at 12,500 in the urban area. But, the popularity among tourists means that there is plenty of infrastructure to accommodate different types of travelers. Read about my favourite hike in the area: Hike in NZ: The Ben Lomond Track

2. Darwin, NT, Australia

My first stop in Australia was Darwin, and I was hooked immediately. My eyes glazed over, I was a goner. The city itself, the surrounding Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks, the George Brown Botanic Gardens, the Mindil Beach Market (oh man). The stereotype is of a city for hedonistic backpackers, and the nightlife does speak to that. Any day of the week you’ll find packed bars and clubs on Mitchell Street. But the city, and the surrounding region, has its own beauty and nods to indigenous cultures as well. When I started writing for this blog, but long before I worked up the courage to share it, I wrote this short series on the Top End: To the Top End (Part 1): Darwin To the Top End (Part 2): Litchfield National Park To the Top End (Part 3): Kakadu National Park

1. St. John’s, NL, Canada

Photo by Daniel Pouliot

My home for 5 years, I can’t say I truly appreciated St. John’s until I moved away. I took for granted the trendy downtown with quirky boutiques and artsy cafes, the diverse nightlife that suits young club-goers, live-music lovers, relaxed pub regulars, and everyone in between, and the plethora of international cuisine and highly rated restaurants scattered downtown and beyond. Hiking in the region is gentle through meadows and forest, or coarse along the rugged coast that jets out to the rough Atlantic, perhaps scattered with icebergs or the odd whale. The East Coast Trail connects 32 historic communities along the coast, with plenty of opportunities for stops along the way. Why take this for granted? I suppose because St. John’s is not a large city, though at over 100,000 within the city area, it’s the largest in the province. The amount of culture in St. John’s dwarfs its size, and being away just shows me how special it truly is. What cities have stolen your heart? Been to any of the ones listed above? Want to? Like this post? Tweet about it!

5 Weekend Trips in South Korea

November 22, 2014 by Marie 22 Comments

It’s now been over a year since I moved away from South Korea, and I still find myself missing it regularly. I’ve written about some reasons why I love it in a previous post, so I won’t go into all that here. Maybe someday I’ll live there again (sorry mom!), but for now I’ll satisfy my longing by writing about it once again.

South Korea is a mecca for recent grads that have less than $0 and want to experience something new. But, you don’t just go there to teach–you go to spend your weekends exploring the country and taking it all in, cheaply (or not-so-cheaply, as it’s also very possible). Here are some of my favourite trips on this mountainous peninsula:

(disclaimer: this list is a bit Gangwon-do heavy. Not only because that’s where I lived–in Wonju–, but because it is a beautiful province with just too much good stuff to miss out on. It’s also pretty convenient if you live in Gyeonggi-do–the most populous province in the country)

5 trips for weekend warriors in South Korea

5. Lake Chungju

Cruising Lake Chungju in the late afternoon sunset is a somewhat mystical experience. The water sparkles in smooth laps and the distant hills turn to shadow. Depending on the time of year, you’ve got two options for your cruise: a shorter, scenic cruise around the artificial lake, or a two-hour journey across the lake to Danyang. Unfortunately, I arrived late in the day and found my choices limited to the first option. I’ve heard Danyang is beautiful in its own right and you can catch the bus back from there, so I was sad about that. However, the shorter cruise was spectacular in itself, the landscape opens up around you and it was a perfect springtime experience for me.

Prices vary between 12,000 to 20,000 Won for ferry admission, depending on your choice. From Chungju Bus Terminal, take bus no. 777 to City Hall (Sicheong) and transfer to no. 301 heading for the lake dock. Read Tim’s full article on it here.

4. Insadong, Seoul

I’ve spent my fair share of weekends–and one Christmas–in Seoul. I’ve been around a few neighbourhoods: Hongdae, Myeongdong, Itaewon, Sincheon, Dongdaemun, Gangnam, and passed through a couple others. Insadong takes the top for me. I get that perhaps Insadong is a bit of a novelty, but it’s fun. It’s a historical district in Seoul, and is a mix of modern art galleries and traditional tea houses. You’ll find streets lined with traditional stationary shops, and street artists and Korean street foods aplenty.

The famed Ssamzigil is a shopping mall worth checking out. It’s an open spiral structure that winds up, filled with plenty of crafts and knickknacks. I purchased one of my favourite chains there for 6,000 Won. At the top you can also find Insadong “poop-bread,” which isn’t nearly as weird as it sounds. I promise. Try one for 1,000 Won.

3. Namiseom/Chuncheon

Namiseom Island is famous for its beauty, history, and natural landscape. It’s true claim to fame, however, is that many scenes from the popular Korean drama Winter Sonata were shot here. Now, I could never find a version of the drama with decent English subtitles (if you know of one, please let me know!) but I desperately wanted to find it after visiting this place. The gorgeous tree-lined roads and grassy field, it’s a romantic setting that feels fairy-tale-worthy. Couples ride tandem bikes, and rustic wooden bridges lead you around the island, through gardens and along the waterfront. I know I’m getting cheesy here. But, I can’t help it when I think about it. It’s too good.

Depending on where you are coming from, you can go directly to Namiseom from Seoul. However, you really should take the time to drop by Chuncheon’s Dakgalbi Street. Seriously. Best. Dakgalbi. Can’t go wrong (disclaimer: maybe you can, matter of opinion!).

2. Chiaksan, Gangwon-do

Chiak is not the most epic mountain in South Korea, but it was my first Korean mountain, and it will always be close to my heart. From Wonju, you can take a public bus for 1,200 Won into the park. It’s a beautiful steady trail to the mountainside temple. Spend an hour or so wandering here, it’s worth it.

The hike becomes much more grueling after an hour or so in. You have a couple of choices when it comes to route, but both have their very physical elements. To the top takes around 2.5 hours, back down much faster, around 1.5. The view at the peak is nice, but the real joy is in the scenery along the way, and reaching the end of the challenging path. Also, when you get back down, you can enjoy some of the best makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and mountain food. This is the good stuff. And you’ll be hungry after this hike. Promise.

1. Seoraksan, Gangwon-do

If I had trouble deciding which destinations were my top picks for this list, that trouble disappeared when choosing the top spot. I would go back to South Korea over and over just to visit Seoraksan, and I know I will (I went there already for two weekends in one summer!).

In the Northeast corner of the country, the bus ride through the mountains, valleys, across bridges, and through tunnels can be a little intimidating in itself. When you pass the granite peaks of Ulsanbawi, you know you’re close.

I didn’t reach the park by Sokcho city bus until after dark, so didn’t really experience the park until waking up in it the next morning. It is epic. The mountains, the temples, the bridges, the giant boulders, valleys, rivers–the way it is so vast and crowded and empty at once. Hiking in Seoraksan can be calming and peaceful, or rough and dramatic. You wake to the sounds of Buddhist chanting and drumming, and sleep with calm emptiness echoing in the mountains.

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These are just a few short trips I was lucky enough to take during my time in Korea. There are plenty of other places I’ve visited or hope to visit someday. Suggestions welcome, as always.

How do you like to spend your weekend getaways?

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A day in Sokcho, South Korea

October 3, 2014 by Marie 4 Comments

I wake up in the morning and grab a can of iced coffee from the mini fridge. I arrived here in the dark, having rushed to catch a two-hour bus on a Friday night after work. The door to the balcony has a sticky door knob that I fumble with for a second before opening. Walking out onto the third-story balcony, I look down and see families pulling hiking gear out of their cars. I look up and see mountains, monopolizing the scene before me. This is why I chose to stay at Seoraksan Tourist Hotel, the only hotel in Seoraksan National Park.

Sokcho is a Korean city of less than 90,000, tucked away in the northeast corner of Gangwon-do–the province I called home for a year. There are many reasons for one to visit Sokcho, it is a cultural and historical city with a popular beach and hot springs. Although it may be seen as a “sleepy city,” the centre is well-equipped with shops and restaurants for money-spending and time-wasting. However, the real reason to visit–and the reason I did–is because Sokcho is the perfect gateway to Seoraksan National Park.

After a quick breakfast, I’m heading out the door. I’m going to hike up Ulsanbawi today, a 4-km hike over 800 steps, up granite peaks, the ones you’ll pass as you arrive in Sokcho. I’ll pass two temples along the way, and fall into line with a string of Korean (and several foreign) hikers, as the stairs wind up precariously along the steep, smooth granite cliffs.

Photo by Tom Page

Legend says that Ulsanbawi is named for the city Ulsan, to the south. This is where Ulsanbawi comes from. As mountains formed to the north of Seoraksan, Ulsanbawi walked up to join, but unfortunately was too late and there was no more room. Walking back, Ulsanbawi slept a night in the Seorak area, and loved it so much that it decided to stay.

My vertigo sets in as I near the peak at Ulsanbawi. Korean hikers traverse a small bridge over a vast drop before reaching the final lookout. My body rejects, but I’m here now, I hold my breath and do the same, though the railing is so short I have to bend down to reach–and I’m the only one who makes the effort to do so. The wind hits like a wall. At the top are men selling water and souvenirs to a couple dozen visitors who crowd a space that is far too small. I wonder how awful it must be to tote all this stuff up those stairs, and how often they do it. I take my photos quickly and get out of there.

Food is expensive in the park, so I take a bus for a dollar into the city. A small restaurant in Sokcho’s centre serves me cheap dolsot bibimbap with a few sides. I’ve brought a towel and swimsuit, so make my way to Sokcho beach. It is a hot day and the beach is crowded. I walk past a long line of umbrellas for rent and spread out my towel on a free space of sand. The beach is long and wide with fine sand stretching the length. Nearby a tent is blown over in the wind and two women chase it down before it gains momentum, leaving a path of irritated beachgoers in its wake.

After a while, I head back to the city centre to walk the main street of shops. I stop to grab some food to take back to the hotel for my dinner–remember, food in the park isn’t cheap. I pass a convenience store and decide to grab a few Cass beers as well. It’s a struggle to carry all of this back on the half-hour bus ride.

Finally, I’m back at the hotel and it’s getting late in the day. I turn on the TV, though the channels are in Korean and I can’t understand. Some reality TV show where two young girls are trying to grab a piece of fabric sticking out of the back of a guy’s pants. Colourful expressions pop up once in a while, I guess this is a standard in Korean television. Supper is Korean fried chicken (with accompanying pickled radishes and green onion) and Cass beer. It’s not glamourous, but it’s exactly what I want.